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Joined:
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31-Dec-1969
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Started On : 11-May-2006 at 01:00:02 AM, #Views : 6111
Topic Subject : Re: new lifecaster needs advice |
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Matt
I never learned to do the lost clay technique. Because i use more urethanes than
silicones, i use the techniques that urethanes suggest. Most of my molds have
undercuts so a single mothermold would not come off the pattern. Plaster/fiber
mothermolds are cheap and quick so I prefer them. But the plaster is wet, and
you cannot pour urethanes against any damp surface or it will foam wildly.
(Silicones don't.) I'd have to take off the plaster mother and dry it
thoroughly, then paint it with releases, before replacing it, sealing the edge
and pouring the rubber. There goes the time!
I can paint on my rubber, paint on some soap, and make a plaster mothermold in a
day if it's warm. Never had a problem with my rubber not lying nicely in the
mothermold. The bumps and brushstrokes in the rubber are enough to key the mold.
But really, I do not make lifecast editions often, only 4 in my career. My
lifecasts are one-outs from plaster molds as my site says. The technique above
is mainly for the architectural work. You can paint on silicone or urethane
pretty thin and be okay. Urethanes are great for casting plaster and concrete
my main casting media. Silicones are only necessary for multiple resin casting.
Fiberglass (FRP) mothermolds are superior, but unnecessary unless the molds will
be treated roughly, as on a concrete-casting vibrating table. I use them on
large pieces as they are light and slightly flexible. It's easy to bolt them
together.
Dan
----------
>From: aliforum@lifecasting.org
>To: archicast@earthlink.net
>Subject: Re: Re: new lifecaster needs advise( Message No. 976)
>Date: Wed, May 10, 2006, 6:55 PM
>
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>
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> -------------------------------------------------------->
>
> Hello Dan Spector
>
>
> Post Date : Wednesday 10th of May 2006 07:55:15 PM
> Posted by : "Matthew Davis" mtd1701@hopper.net
>
> Re: Re: new lifecaster needs advise:--
> Dan
>
> The way that I do a silicone mold is to cover the object with clay about
> 1/8" thick. Then cover that with fiberglass with seams of course. After
> the fiberglass hardens, remove it and the clay. Place the fiberglass back
> around the object and pour the silicone into the empty area around the
> object. This way the silicone is uniform and smooth on the outside and is
> easy to place into the fiberglass backup as well as remove. Have you ever
> tried this way? Just wondering which is easier. Have a good day.
>
> Matt in Alabama
>
> ALI is an international organization whose members are engaged in the art
> and creative industries. Its purpose is to promote the art of life casting
> create public awareness of this unique art form, provide its members with
> forums to exchange information, resources to enhance their effectiveness
> and advance opportunities for their artistic success.
>
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