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John Schoonraad
Joined:
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20-Oct-2004
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Started On : 15-Aug-2009 at 12:02:31 PM, #Views : 6014
Topic Subject : Re: RE: Help with cold casting problems |
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Hi Jane
I do a lot of cold cast bonze and other metal casts please feel free to call as we both live in the uk
I would love to discuss the ins and outs here but there are so many
my Jackets or mother moulds are usually fibreglass and i make sure the silicone is keyed in so it cannot move about if it is balloon thin you can line the jacket with vasaline which creats an air tight fit and sticks it to the jacket (mothermould)its handy if there are any rips in it and the material used wont stick if it leaks through
its always best to make sure you have at least a quater of and inch 6m thickness in the silicon
and making good bronze resin (fixing it )is also quite difficult once its been patched I usually go over it with black iron past and the then rub it back with wire wool this helps the look
kind regards
John
John Schoonraad
Lifecast Ltd
E: info@lifecast.co.uk
W: www.lifecast.co.uk
T: +44 (0)7877 035 895
Workshop 6
Elstree Film & TV Studios
Shenley Road
Borehamwood
Herts
WD6 1JG
----- Original Message -----
From: aliforum@lifecasting.org
To: john@lifecast.co.uk
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:16 AM
Subject: A new topic has been added-RE: Help with cold casting problems( Message No. 2442)
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Hello John Schoonraad
Post Date : Friday 14th 2009f August 2009 10:07:36 PM
Posted by : "Jane Ireland" janeireland75@hotmail.co.uk
RE: Help with cold casting problems:--
Hi, I was wondering if you could give me any tips about cold casting in bronze. I recently did a female torso and the silicone jacket wasnt thick enough in places and when removed from the plaster mould it had sagged in places and this resulted in deep gouges on the cold bronze positive.
I filled in the crevises with more cold bronze, however it was difficult to shape when wet, and near imposible to file when set. The only way I could sculpt the shape back on was with a Dremyl tool.. This resulted in the cast going a grey colour and no matter how many different grades of sandpaper I used, I couldnt get the bronze to come through. This was a very costly mistake and I was wondering if I found myself in that situation again-is there another method I could use to obtain a bronze even finish, or is the answer simply, to ensure that the secondary mould has enough silicone built up to ensure sagging in the material is avoided.
Many thanks,
Jane
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 00:06:11 -0400
To: janeireland75@hotmail.co.uk
Subject: A new topic has been added-Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Lifecasters in UK( Message No. 2417)
From: aliforum@lifecasting.org
------------Silica-Free & Oh So GREEN------->
NEW! MoldGel SILFREE. A revolutionary formula.
Made with all food-grade ingredients. It nourishes
the earth when discarded. 3-to-1 mix ratio yields
twice the volume as those 1-to-1 brands. Delayed
shrinkage for delayed casting - so creamy smooth, too.
To learn more about it click here
---------------------------------------------->
Hello Jane Ireland,
Post Date : Wednesday 05th 2009f August 2009 11:59:13 PM
Posted by : "Dan Spector" dan@archicast.com
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Lifecasters in UK:--
Ali
We're piling up the Re: 's above, aren't we.
I have never seen dental plaster but some of youall swear by it.
Post anything that is a legitimate part of lifecasting.
I use either the squirtbottle colors sold by paint stores and craft
stores or mineral pigments, which are powders sold by masonry
suppliers. I may use the color so created or put a finish over it.
Best of all, look at my tutti frutti bootie colors!
You can tell one layer from another by different shades of color or
simply because the previous batch is set and smoothed. Obviously
there is a learning curve but it's not that hard. As it grows
thicker, it stays where you put it more and more. Wet plaster stays
in the fibers of the glass mat too.
I don't understand the rest; my molds cannot be pulled in, they are
rigid, and can't imagine if they were not, as you'd get ripples and
deformities.
Best of luck
Dan Spector
dan@archicast.com
On Aug 5, 2009, at 10:14 PM, aliforum@lifecasting.org wrote:
>
> Hello Dan Spector
>
>
> Post Date : Wednesday 05th 2009f August 2009 11:07:55 PM
> Posted by : "Ali Webber" tawebber123@hotmail.com
>
> Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New Lifecasters in UK:--
> Thanks Dan, I appreciate all the time you took to write that. Lots
> of info in there for me to take in and thanks for beign so helpful.
> I have recently got a sack of 2 different types of hydrocal to see
> which ones better, one is faster setting and is hydrocal 106
> otherwise known as white dental stone, the other is hydrocal white
> not sure of any other info apparently takes little longer to set
> both have strength of 6,000 psi.
>
> Sounds really complicated for a learner like me, never know one day
> i may get there. I will post a picture of the ladies breasts that i
> did once finished. Is there an issue with posting them on here as
> they are exposed??? Dont want to post anything that may offend
> anyone. It is extremley heavy so i do plan on tackling the way you
> have explained and should be able to source fibreglass mat.
>
> With doing the layers of the h'cal and fibreglass and then
> repeating do you get an obvious line of where the next layer is? I
> cant see how i could have done this mould the way you have
> explained as when i pulled the mould off and reinforced the back so
> i could pour full of stone i pulled it in so it was more compact
> and is quite decieving on how large the lady was, by pulling the
> mould in it curved the belly around and made a fuller mould, i have
> done in the shape of a love heart. So if i was to slosh this around
> i cant see how i would get even distribution of the stone with out
> it wanting to start to full down the sides unless it was like a
> paste when this is done? What product do you suggest to add to the
> stone to colour and is there any further work involved in colouring
> afterwards or is that the finished product.
>
> Thanks again
> Ali
>
> ALI is an international organization whose members are engaged in
> the art and creative industries. Its purpose is to promote the art
> of life casting, create public awareness of this unique art form
> provide its members with forums to exchange information, resources
> to enhance their effectiveness and advance opportunities for their
> artistic success.
ALI is an international organization whose members are engaged in the art and creative industries. Its purpose is to promote the art of life casting, create public awareness of this unique art form, provide its members with forums to exchange information, resources to enhance their effectiveness and advance opportunities for their artistic success.
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ALI is an international organization whose members are engaged in the art and creative industries. Its purpose is to promote the art of life casting, create public awareness of this unique art form, provide its members with forums to exchange information, resources to enhance their effectiveness and advance opportunities for their artistic success.
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