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Dan Spector

Joined: :
02-Jan-2008

Started On : 29-May-2009 at 11:09:40 AM, #Views : 6613

Topic Subject : Re: Re: Re: Copying Castings




I think it's Hydrocal FGR-95 he's using. Could be very hard to find,
but it is amazingly strong when used with fiberglass as intended,
which lets you work very thin (maybe 1/8"). FGR-95 sets slowly, and
can be mixed with a different plaster to use less and work faster.
You must start with FGR-95 to make Forton, Matrix, Jesmonite etc. I
last paid for 50 lbs.
This box idea could benefit from some pictures or illustrations!
I use a clay loop tool (several of them, in fact) to make not just
keys but locking channels in the flange, or clay shim wall.
The "harder " the silicone (higher D number), the less you need keys,
nipples etc. so if working with a soft (low D number) silicone you
need keys all over the place! Otherwise the silicone will obey
gravity rather than its real shape and be difficult to cast in.
Dan Spector
901 323 8717
www.lifecast-art.com
dan@archicast.com



On May 28, 2009, at 11:05 PM, aliforum@lifecasting.org wrote:

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> Hello Dan Spector

>
>
> Post Date : Thursday 28th 2009f May 2009 11:59:35 PM
> Posted by : "Robert Oblon" hotbronze@aol.com
>
> Re: Re: Copying Castings:--
>
>
>
> Clay
>
>
> What you are referring to are registration keys. The keys are used
> when
> making a two piece rubber mold some time called a book mold or
> brush up mold.
> We use clay as a shim at the parting line (one half of the
> sculpture that
> allows two mold halves). We build a box around the clay wall (shim)
> and then
> create "registration keys" using the head of a screw driver pressed
> into
> the clay shim. We then mix our silicone rubber brush on our "print
> coat" and
> then pour an amount into the box and continue to brush or "pull" the
> rubber until it sets in about an hour. We use Silicones
> Incorporated GI 1000
> silicone. I try not to use an accelerator due to the fact that it
> shortens the
> shelf life of the silicone rubber mold and makes it brittle too.
> Once the
> first side of the rubber has cured we mix up hydrocal FMG-95, adding
> fiberglass strands to make a mother mold over the silicone rubber
> half. Once the
> hydrocal is set, we strip the box flip over the mold, strip away
> the clay
> shim, check the surface of the second half of the sculpture, box up
> the
> mold, apply a mixture of dish soap cut 50% with water to the
> exposed silicone
> shim, mix rubber and proceed as we did to the first half of the
> mold. I know
> that was a very long run on sentence. So the screw driver head
> impression
> that we created by pressing the screw driver into the clay has
> become a
> positive registration key in silicone that will now have the second
> half of
> the rubber poured onto it and the sculpture. Once the second half
> has cured
> along with the hydrocal mother they are removed from the box walls
> and the
> two halves of the rubber is stripped away from the sculpture
> creating a
> negative void where the sculpture was, the two halves are put back
> together
> using those "registration keys" that are part of the silicone
> rubber mold
> structure and backed by the mother mold help in place with
> strapping. Molten
> pattern was is poured into the opening that was created when the
> sculpture
> was first laid up with clay. Our silicone rubber molds are used to
> create wax
> patterns for ceramic shell casting that we do in silicon bronze and
> stainless steel. These same molds can be used for liquid plastics,
> plaster
> castings, etc.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Robert Oblon
> Central Coast Art Foundry
> Arroyo Grande, California
> 805-748-5381, Fax 805-980-4890
>
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> ALI is an international organization whose members are engaged in
> the art and creative industries. Its purpose is to promote the art
> of life casting, create public awareness of this unique art form,
> provide its members with forums to exchange information, resources
> to enhance their effectiveness and advance opportunities for their
> artistic success.




 
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